Here the list of the reed making tools that I use.

Gouger

Gouger Reedmachine.com with bed R12/120/1,3 and blade R12.

These values mean that my bed is 120mm long, set to work with thickness around 1,3mm and for 24mm diameter cane. Blade is for 24mm diameter cane. Right now I would prefer to have bed and blade to 26mm in diameter, but it's not a big deal.

 

Profiler

Profiler Reedmachine.com with cylinder D26-L120-W16-DIF0.3-LC160-E1.29.

The important values of the cylinder are: 26mm in diameter, 120mm in lenght, 16mm in width and the differential between the middle and the sides been 0,30.

The differential play a big part in the finished reed. I have 2 cylinder one with DIF0,25 and one with DIF0,30. At the moment i prefer the cylinder with DIF0,30.

 

Micrometer

Right now I'm using a custom modified micrometer. I used the G. Rieger micrometer for the base and I changed the dial to have a softer one. The problem that I had with the Rieger dial was that the spring was too hard and often it was denting my reeds. I also dislike the little tongue where to insert the reed. The notches are 4mm apart and I find it useless for measuring the tip of the reed which is the most important part. The toungue it's also too flat and can sometimes distort the mesuraments. I'm really unsatisfied with it and I'm trying to build a better one on my own. 

 

Other tools

Wooden board. I like to have a sturdy wooden board with me anytime I have to work on reeds. It helps to have a nice work surface where you can freely use tools and push with force without being afraid to ruin what you have below. I need to always lean on a stable surface when working on reeds. This increases my precision and awareness of the work I am doing.

Sand papers. I usually use sand papers between 400 and 800. i don't like to use values that are too fine. If the paper is too fine it will make the reed very smooth. When I play a reed that is too smooth I get the feeling that it slips between my lips.

Files. I use these two files for the making part of the reed. Vallorbe Habilis Cut 1. Vallorbe is a brand of really good files. The second file is a simple diamond file generally used for nails.

Cutter & blades. I'm really picky about my cutter and especially my blades. I find that the shaping of the reed is one of the hardest thing to do properly in the reed making process. Therefore, I bought a really sturdy cutter made in metal and I tried lots of differents blades. Right now I like to use the Razar Black Blade Tajima.

Shape. I'm using G. Rieger shape 490.

 

G. Rieger brass wire 0,6mm.

G. Rieger mandrel F5.

G. Rieger reamers F8 and F8D.

G. Rieger pliers.

Sturdy and thick knife that I use for splitting the tubes.

Two sharp grafting knives. I use one just for the making of the reed and the other just for scrapping on the reed in order to preserve the blade as sharp as possible.

Round file to clean the inside of the reed after the reamming it.

Vallorbe files: triangular shaped and two flat with cut of 0 and 2.

 

G. Rieger mandrel tips F8.

Bison Max Repair glue. Any non-toxic, water-resisten glue it's fine.

Waxed cotton wire.

G. Rieger tip cutter.

Caliper.

Reed stand.